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Reflections on Hero Worship »

When Heroes Stumble

April 18, 2011 by Mara Rose

Following the 60 Minutes piece last night on Greg Mortensen, best selling author of Three Cups of Tea and Stones into Schools, and after reading Jon Krakauer‘s expose, Three Cups of Deceit, taking Greg Mortensen apart, I am saddened and confused, unsure what to think.

I considered Greg Mortensen a modern day hero.  I want to believe in his story.  I believe schools, especially education for girls, not more guns, are the ultimate answer to terrorism.

I also believe that fame and money can lead to misfortune.  But I am also aware that there are those who thrive on taking other people down.

In 1997, I was privileged to visit NW Pakistan with a group of Americans.  We rafted the Gilgit River, also known as the Ghizar River.  We hiked through ancient villages on the Silk Road, where life meanders on just as it has for 500 years.  I loved every minute of our adventure.

                                                                                         

Even more than the thrill of whitewater rapids, I loved interacting with the local people, all of whom were kind and extra-ordinarily hospitable.  Most belonged to the Ismaili sect of Islam, and while poor and conservative, were congenial and happy, with a Mediterranean joy de vivre. Subsistence farmers, with a beautiful dignity.  They invited into us into their humble stone-built homes for tea and candied nuts, surprised us with undeserved hand-embroidered gifts, poured Arak, the local home brew, and showered us with every kindness.


Our guides were culturally savvy.  One of our first stops was the bazaar in Peshawar to outfit ourselves in Shalwar Kameez, the modest garment ubiquitous to the region. We also picked up head scarves in Chitral.  Our guides coached us regarding proper etiquette, so that we would be welcomed by the people we met–and avoid offense. Without their careful guidance, our inevitable faux pas would have ruined a rich and unforgettable cross-cultural experience.


One of the highlights of our trip was our visit to a school for both boys and girls at a village on the Gilgit River.  I learned that the Aga Khan, leader of the Ismaili sect, funds much of the development for this region in Pakistan’s remote NW Frontier, and I believe his organization funded the school we visited.  The school was well built, and the girls especially, in their matching blue and white uniforms, were enthusiastic about learning and proud of their accomplishments.

                                                                            

After the Pakistan earthquake around 2005, I wondered what had happened to the villages and people we met.  I searched on line for news, and discovered the CIA, Greg Mortensen’s organization.  I was impressed, having visited villages in the Hindu Kush.  I was aware of the massive cultural barriers a lone American would face attempting to build schools in that region.  I loved our visit to the school on the Gilgit River, and was excited Mortensen was building more schools to educate children in NW Pakistan, especially the girls.

I am saddened, as I strongly believe educating girls is the path to empowering women in any culture, especially Pakistan.  The Government of Pakistan is failing miserably in educating its citizens, leading to the rise of fundamentalist Madrassas, which are often the only education available.

Nonetheless, charities, even those attempting admirable work, must be absolutely transparent and accountable for the money we give them, and for their tax-exempt privilege.  Financial wrongdoing, in the name of a good cause, is still wrongdoing, and smears the cause with mud.  Lying to tart up a story that would be remarkable standing on it’s own, is inexcusable.  The betrayal stings.

I will be following this story with interest, hoping for a good, but improbable outcome.  I want to believe the best about others.  However, in the future, I will also do a diligent background check on any charity to which I choose to contribute.

One thing confuses me, as I remember my journey 13 years ago.  I saw no fundamentalist Madrassas in the Gilgit River basin.  I was of the impression that the Gilgit River basin and Hunza Valley were the “Jewels of Pakistan”, and that the Aga Khan was a benefactor to the area.  I did not visit nearby Skardu or Baltistan, where Mortensen began his work.  Maybe things are different there.  Or have changed.  His books left me the impression that fundamentalist Madrassas are springing up in the region after 2001.  The truth is, I just don’t know.

I am interested in your thoughts about this situation.  Right now, I have only questions–and no answers.  I especially welcome comments from anyone familiar with Pakistan and Afghanistan, and the role of aide in this fascinating corner of our world.

Mara Rose

April 25, 2011 addendum, link to blog post in the Pamir Times, good local info on literacy in Gilgit-Baltistan and the role of Aga Khan Development.

Here is the link to Jon Krakauer’s Article, Three Cups of Deceit.  (Non-affiliate link).

And the link to Mortensen’s comments in defense of himself to Outside Magazine.

You might also enjoy:

Reflections on Hero Worship.

Sufism–Of Love and Tolerance

All photos by author, NW Frontier, Pakistan, 1997.

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Posted in service | Tagged Aga Khan Development, Charity, Chitral, Gilgit River, Hindu Kush, Hunza Valley, Ismaili, Jon Krakauer, NW Frontier Pakistan, Outside Magazine, Schools, Silk road, Three Cups of Deceit | 4 Comments

4 Responses

  1. on May 16, 2011 at 8:10 am Lisa Wields Words

    I’ve actually avoided paying attention to the story because it made my heart hurt so much. At the same time, I find it really hard to believe that he would intentionally deceive people. When you meet him, he is soft spoken and shy, and very, very humble. Yes, he manipulates emotions to achieve goals (his daughter appeals to kids on a video for the Pennies program that makes everyone weep). But still . . . I wish sometimes that people were more determined to continue good works than rip apart saints. Sadly, that’s now how our world functions.


    • on May 16, 2011 at 10:11 am Mara Rose

      Lisa,

      Thank you for your response. I found this story hard to deal with as well at first. But the allegations of financial mismanagement of his non-profit are well documented and very serious. Co-mingling funds creates IRS problems for one. He was warned many times and refused to change. I think this really hurts him. On reflection, I don’t understand why he did not simply work with Aga Kahn Development, which is huge and well established in that area–Gilgit-Baltistan and Afghanistan. Very sad situation.


      • on May 16, 2011 at 10:25 am Lisa Wields Words

        Ooh, like I said, I haven’t really read the details. The financial mismanagement doesn’t really surprise me though, in the sense that he seems to live in a world of dreaming and doesn’t have much foot in practicalities. That is a truly bad situation.


  2. on May 16, 2011 at 10:33 am Mara Rose

    That is for sure.

    I really enjoy your blog, BTW :-)



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